Putting Our Money Where Our Mouth Is: A Conversation on Vertical Farming, City Planning, and Healthier Food


The fruit of vertical farming? Ilustration: Holley Flagg

Last month, the American Museum of Natural History held its 21st Annual Spring Environmental Lecture, attended by folks hungry first for a discussion of sustainable food in cities, and then a locavore luncheon (which alas, this reporter didnt partake in). The event's panelists included Nevin Cohen, a professor of Environmental Studies at The New School; Dickson Despommier, a professor emeritus of Public Health at Columbia University; and Nancy E. Easton, the founder of the New York City nonprofit . Heres just some of their conversation, to whet your appetite for more.

First, a few of the challenges. At the global level, Cohen began, one big issue is climate change from our food system. Food production itself, plus deforestation to provide the grains to feed our livestock, represents nearly a third of global C02 emissions in part because of the need for long-distance shipping. Meanwhile agricultural plots surrounding cities are being paved over. Were losing our farmlands, were losing our farmers, and were probably losing that institutional memory, said Despommier, adding that, by 2050, nearly 80 percent of the worlds population will live in cities.

How will those cities be fed sustainably? One piece of the puzzle is urban agriculture, not just on rooftops, but within buildings. Despommier's their champion. If we can catch the tail of a comet's dust, and bring it back to this planet and examine it, we can build a farm in a skyscraper, he said. , and last year, Despommier proposed another to the City of Newark, which expressed plenty of interest. But it's the funding, of course, that's key. The world needs to see that weve done something other than invade countries, and things like that, argued Despommier. We need to spend our money better, and [vertical farming] is a great way.

According to Easton, supporting fresh local food, cooked right, is going to be essential to undoing about 30 years of bad eating." Thirty percent of U.S. children are overweight, she said, and in New York City, its 43 percent. When Easton was a teacher, she noticed that kids were consuming mainly bottles of something orange this bigcue sweeping gestureand bags of something orange this big. They were out of shape. So she was inspired to start , a nonprofit that brings trained chefs into NYCs public school cafeterias to overhaul menus and teach healthy cooking in classrooms. She also has helped build a hydroponic garden atop her own childrens' school, making urban food integral to their education.

Planning needs to be a priority, too. For 100 years, city planners have pretty much ignored food as an issue, Cohen said. In addition to rooftop plots, cities also need to support mid-size farmers just outside their limits, allowing them to sell profitably in urban zones (and not just at farmers markets). Cooperative distribution centers are crucial, said Cohen. We can reorganize space in the city so that community gardens can thrive and we can experiment with all types of food productionrooftop gardens, vertical farms, and the mid-sized farms that preserve open space on the fringe. The exciting thing about food is that it involves everyone, Cohen said, as stomachs began to rumble, and there isnt a one size fits all solution.

All three panelists pointed to the U.S. Farm Bills heavy subsidization of big agricultureof mega-crops like corn and soybeansas a major impediment to healthier farms and eating habits. By contrast, Easton pointed out, the average school lunch is budgeted just 96 cents. Despommier likewise shook his head in amazement. If we had 2 percent of that Farm Bill, you wouldnt be asking me what is a vertical farm, he said. Youd be asking me to have dinner in one. If youre truly for sustainable food, the panel told the audience, then do more than gardenwrite your Senators, as well.

But first, if you havent already, be sure to browse . Senior editor Susan Cosiers article is especially apt.